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Whenever assembling a list of London’s best dining spots, one might expect renowned high-end establishments. However, nestled prominently among these culinary titans is a unpretentious salonu situated in a distant area of north London.

A Unexpected Accolade

The compact Turkish eatery, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the fourth top restaurant in the city by a respected culinary publication. The accolade has left the family totally astonished.

“I am completely shocked,” states the family member, referring to his parents’ dedication that led to their small place earning such a prominent ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

The small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a buzzing destination, has kept much of its earlier charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking show, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” comments the owner.

A Signature Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the food, and this restaurant definitely delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a tender texture.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are added in gradually. When the meaty mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to take in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is usually consumed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than usual, giving it a more intense, nuttier and more balanced profile.

Outranking the Titans

Interestingly, this modest spot has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the top of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place stuffed for below £25, similar experiences at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

The Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is most important is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is supported by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Dedication

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not work at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel very happy of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum would be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she had a life outside work but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is set to echo beyond its own premises. “In my opinion numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the wider meaning of this gastronomic honour.